Vintage Report 2020
Friday 6th March
Thursday 23rd of April
185 tonne processed
Summer 19/20 was mild with a distinct gap between whites and reds. This eased pressure to pick and meant the fruit ripened slowly in our Mount Benson vineyard. Coonawarra and Wrattonbully had a few warm days in late February which meant, as is normally the case, theirs was the first fruit processed at Cape Jaffa, our En Soleil Pinot Gris from Koch's Wrattonbully vineyard. With less contract processing this year because most of those grapes were sold to struggling producers impacted by fire, lack of water or hail we were able to take our time which resulted in our reds having more time on skins. Yields were down, which left us no choice but to make less. This is especially true for our single vineyard wines such as our La Lune and En Soleil ranges. Low yields were due to cool temperatures at flowering and moisture at cap fall* preventing the caps from falling off. As this was the case in many regions the best value for quality will come from smaller family owned wineries. Wind on the coast naturally regulates for lower yields and helps with disease pressure. With the little summer rains that we naturally get here there was no disease in the vineyard and fruit was picked clean. Sugar ripened first followed by tannin and flavour. Acids held well because of an early and strong Bonney Upwelling*. But as is usually the case there is an inverse correlation between yield and quality. So, although we picked less, the quality of the fruit was very impressive. Half an inch of rain at veraison* helped the berries colour up quickly and evenly. This rain event coincided with the moon opposing Saturn which is when we sprayed our biodynamic preparations 500 and 501* and the response in the vines was immediate. The geographical isolation of the Limestone Coast meant that the only real impact of the Rona was the barrel salesman stayed away, the pub was shut and there was a bottle of hand-sani on the forklift.
Once flowering occurs low temperatures will delay opening and this often results in retention of the caps. Usually at flowering the cap will be shed exposing the anthers and pistil which allow pollination. Lower rates of pollination due to cap retention will reduce yields.
The Bonney Upwelling is a phenomenon that has a considerable impact on our climate at Mount Benson during our summer ripening period. Cool deep water from the Southern Ocean is bought to the surface near the coast through submarine channels. This process encourages cooling afternoon breezes which keep our temperature consistent and lengthens our ripening period which aids in developing more complex flavours in our fruit.
Veraison is the onset of ripening which is observed by the colour of the grapes starting to change.
*500 and 501
500 Horn Manure works on the soil and roots to stimulate microbial activity, root development, and regulate PH. 501 Horn Silica complements 500 and is sprayed on the vines. It promotes vertical growth, plant vigour and reduces susceptibility to diseases.
"With our abundant access to ground water, consistent mild summers and huge diurnal swing during the ripening period. I would not want to grow grapes anywhere else." - Steve Brown, 2020 Winemaker
Cape Jaffa solar installation
Cape Jaffa Wines made a huge step towards meeting their sustainability mantra with the installation of 297 solar panels on their winery roof with a capacity of 81KW. Coupled with 96x 400Ah lithium battery cells to store power for use on those odd days (and nights) when the sun isn’t shining, this is expected to create an emissions savings of about 60 CO2e per year.
‘Our sustainability conscience has certainly led us on a journey of discovery, and a journey that I feel is a perpetual one’. Back in 2009, the company began to recognise the fact that running a certified organic and biodynamic vineyard created a degree of expectation from customers that this meant the business was ‘green’. ‘While there are many aspects of what we were doing in the vineyard that can be considered environmentally friendly, to truly be ‘green’ means so much more than running a biodynamic vineyard’. Cape Jaffa has taken a more holistic approach to sustainability recognising weak spots, priority areas and risks across the entire business and working to continually improve on these.
The winery has grappled with the fact that out on the Cape they are distanced from the national three-phase power grid which supplies the necessary current for most winery equipment. To date they have relied on load matched diesel generators for their three-phase power requirements. Although the company were early adopters of solar technology in the office and Cellar Door area, to make use of solar power generation in the winery they either needed to store power or have the support of a three-phase grid connection. For a long time this has not been considered economically viable for the business and they were unsuccessful in a number of Government grant applications for renewable energy due to this unique situation. Its only now that the cost of both solar and battery storage have come down, that the business case has stacked up.
Another challenge facing all wineries, is that the production process is tied to grape supply which is of course based on a perennial cycle. Therefore there are typically big peaks in usage especially at vintage time due to the large scale equipment used for processing and refrigeration. This adds another challenge to obtaining a pay back on an investment, especially when there is no grid to feed back into if supply outweighs demand.
To better understand energy efficiency, Cape Jaffa went through the process of a detailed energy audit. Although the audit was supported by a government grant, there was no funding available to invest in the improvements recommended. Reducing usage, and in particular peak loads, became the focus and substantial savings were achieved through a number of changes to our process. ‘We began co-inoculating for secondary fermentation to reduce our requirements to warm wines and we moved away from traditional cold stabilisation’. ‘Over time we have waited patiently for pricing on solar panels and battery based storage come down to the point that its now economical for us in its own right, even without the assistance of grants.’
The pay back in investment may not be the shortest one but this decision was made by a family with a long term view in mind. ‘We expect that the system will mean we can run a carbon neutral operation for nine months of the year and will occasionally run a diesel back-up generator to top up our power supply when required during vintage’.
Cape Jaffa has been recognised over and over for their sustainability efforts, winning three consecutive Advantage SA awards for sustainability, and subsequently being admitted to the Sustainability Hall of Fame in 2011. They were awarded an Australia Day Award back in 2012 by Robe Mayor Peter Risely for Corporate Contribution to the Environment. This award to recognised their conservation projects outside the business including weed removal on both McIntyre Reserve and the islands of Baudin Rocks. Cape Jaffa Wines also received a certificate of Merit in the South Australian Wine Industry Environmental Excellence Awards and Anna Hooper was runner up in an international event run by the Drinks Business UK for ‘Green personality of the Year’.
Cape Jaffa would like to acknowledge the tremendous support of Zen Energy, who supplied the lithium battery system. The installation itself was completed by local electrician Anthony Moore and his team at Robe Electrical. Derek Hooper has been involved in off-grid systems since he built an off grid, wind powered house on the Cape Jaffa property back in the late 90’s. The family home, out on a windswept hill near Cape Jaffa, was designed for a family of six plus the odd guest, has been off-grid and solar and wind powered since it was built in 2005. Derek’s first-hand experience includes importing battery systems into Australia and his wealth of knowledge on this subject has been integral to the implementation of this project.
Hold on to your winter socks friends, as we are about to blow them off...
Jean Jaures once said, ‘Tradition does not mean to look after the ash, but to keep the flame alive’. Here at Cape Jaffa Wines we agree wholeheartedly.
Our newest release does just that and is an exciting and very, very different range of wines which will bring even your most oenophile of friends off their pedestal. For such a long time in Australians have held the notion that the best wines come from straight varietals. Well we’ve gone and tipped that notion on its head with stunning results. Aptly named ‘Winemaking on The Edge’, this new range closes the rule book, embraces the blend and sprinkles the result with a little dash of Cape Jaffa Wines magic.
If you are up to date with everything Cape Jaffa you will remember our immensely popular ‘Riptide’ made using viognier juice on Shiraz skins. Well, ‘Mesmer Eyes’ is kind of like Riptides rebellious brother where we have fermented Gewürztraminer on a combination of its own skins and a small proportion of Shiraz skins. This has created an aromatic medium bodied white wine which is actually red in colour. It’s lies somewhere between a rose and a red but not like anything you’ve tasted before. It will appeal to those looking for a light bodied, versatile red wine with a floral aromatic quality that was once only achievable with white wines. It goes incredibly well with a range of foods and, like us, pushes the boundaries and the senses to the limit.
This range also includes ‘Samphire’ which sees a melding of tradition and innovation. Based on the ancient Georgian craft of making wine in clay pots - which Anna learnt whilst working a vintage there in 2015. These pots, called qvevris, were traditionally buried anywhere from the family garage or, in the old days BC, in the local monastery for ‘ritualistic purposes’ or so they say. As Cape Jaffa Wines don’t have a monastery available we achieved a similar result using Australian fruit, a similar ceramic egg-shaped vessel, and a carved from Limestone barrel hall which may or may not have been blessed. Left fermenting on full skins in the egg for 5-6 months and then barrelling has led to a softening of the tannins, an explosive depth of flavour and a creamy mouthfeel.
Interest in these wines is bubbling throughout wine circles and our favourite winemaker, Anna Hooper, has been recognised in the top twelve at the 2017 Australian Young Gun of Wine award for her willingness to bend the rules. Even the very stylish Delicious magazine has picked up the range as the perfect match to their August recipes.
This new range encompasses everything that is right at Cape Jaffa Wines. Edgy, creative winemaking, a love of craft and beautifully drinkable wines. These wines are made distinctive in the range with a sketchy version of the regular label, reminding us of an artist’s draft-work, of our continual move back to the drawing board, of our promise to experiment and explore the very heart of winemaking out here on the edge.
As we head towards the pointy end of the year it is time to get our ‘festive’ on and commence popping. Over the next few weeks many of you will make the switch from a pre-dinner drink to the clinking of flutes filled with bubbly, nose tickling goodness. To help you choose, store, chill and pour your bubbles correctly, we've prepared our go-to guide on all things fizz.
Champagne or Australian sparkling?
To be called champagne a sparkling wine must originate from the Champagne region of northern France and be made using the "methode champenoise", in which secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. Australian sparkling wine made using this same process will have "methode traditionelle", "bottle fermented" or "methode champenoise" on the label.
At Cape Jaffa Wines we use the charmat (or tank ferment) method. The bubbles in our Cape Jaffa Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay come from CO2 produced as a result of a secondary fermentation of sugar to alcohol. This is in contrast to the cheaper method of direct carbonation with CO2. Charmat method tends to create comparatively finer bubbles that persist for longer so it’s better quality than carbonation.
How cold do you like it?
Coldest is not always best. One of the most common mistakes people make is burying a bottle in an ice bucket or pulling it straight out of your fridge. You definitely want to keep it cool, but we recommend removing it from the refrigerator about 10 minutes before you're ready to serve, and assuming you're sharing with friends, you probably don't need to keep chilling it back down.
Flute, saucer or coupe?
We're sorry to burst your bubble, flute enthusiasts, but experts say that although flutes do retain the bubbles better than a coupe, the narrow opening concentrates the levels of CO2, forcing out an ultra-explosion of bubbles that ultimately distort the taste and aroma. The solution? Get the most oomph (both in terms of bubbles and flavour) by serving it in a classic wine glass. However, a flute is still a good option if that is all you’ve got handy.
So how do you open a bottle of champagne without looking like an arse who has just won a grand prix? The trick – after taking off the wire and foil – is to tilt the bottle to 45 degrees, grip the cork and twist the bottle, easing the cork out – let it hiss out, not pop out – and, when it is all the way out, keep the bottle at 45 degrees a few seconds longer. That way you won't lose any of that precious, fizzing golden liquid to the floor. They say when opening a sparkling it should sigh like a contented woman…we’ll leave that to your imagination.
Store it – with a teaspoon?
Sparkling doesn’t come with a screw cap so the biggest issue facing bubble enthusiasts is how to store an open bottle. Lots of people will insist that if you put a spoon in the neck and put it in the fridge the bubbles will stay healthy and boisterous. These people are both right and wrong. Put champagne in the fridge with a spoon in it and it will stay bubbly – but only because the cooling action of the fridge makes carbon dioxide more soluble and so more easily retained in the liquid. The spoon, alas, is entirely superfluous. Go get yourself a stopper and save your precious bubbles from a teaspoon inflicted death.
So, there you have it, you are now a bubble aficionado. So stock up, chill down and (don’t) get popping. Happy Australian Sparkling Season!
Here's our favourite crayfish dip recipe with a healthy splash of bubbles for good measure.
1 tub Robe Dairy Labneh or cream cheese if unavailable
1 1/2 cups cooked cray meat, roughly chopped
1/4 cup Cape Jaffa Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay
Season to taste with cracked pepper and sea salt
1 teaspoon fresh dill
2 tbsp sour cream
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Serve with your favourite crackers.
Even though this winter has kept us shackled indoors with her wet and icy grip for what feels like an eternity, it only took 48 hours of light and warmth and, kapow – holy pink delight Batman, we are ready for Rosé season. Nothing says happiness to us like a sizzling BBQ plate full of local seafood, some great friends, views across the paddocks to the ocean and some beautifully chilled, Cape Jaffa Wines Rosé!
Now we’re not talking about your Grandmother’s pink, sugary mess but dry, crisp, ballsy Rosé. The kind that makes you smack your lips together and look to the sky in thanks.
To help you get up to scratch with this ‘on trend’ glass filler we thought we’d share some of our knowledge with you so that you too can join the pink army and banish pink prejudice forever.
Five Rosé Myths Busted
1. Rosé is a girl’s drink. FALSE. Real men have no issue wearing pink nor should they about drinking pink. Brad Pitt owns a vineyard in France that released a great Rosé. He called it Miraval. It made the top 100 wines in the world, sold out in five hours and Brad Pitt looks like a real man to us. In the Basque region of Spain, there is a “guys only” tradition called Poteo. The male-bonding ritual of Poteo involves bar-hopping for an extended period of time, indulging in a glass of rosé at each establishment. So there are two great myth busters: Real men drink pink – join the Brosé revolution!
2. Rosé is a just a mix of red and white wine. FALSE. Whilst you can blend a small amount of red wine with white wine to create what looks like rose (and we’ve all tried it) rosés are produced using red grape varieties. The juice inside the grapes is white — the skins are the part of the grape that impart the colour. The juice and skins macerate (mingle together) for a very short period just long enough to extract some of the colour and character of the skins. The juice is then separated from the skins and seeds, then fermented into wine.
3. All Rosés are sweet. FALSE. Like all good wines Rosé comes in a variety of sweetness however the really serious ones are dryer in nature making them a great all-rounder. You might find hints of strawberry or watermelon but how sweet the wine is depends on the technique not the colour.
4. Rosé is cheap therefore low in quality. FALSE. Yes, we admit, there are plenty of cheap Rosés on the market however you can also find plenty of dirt cheap red and white wines on the shelves. When you are next at the bottle-o take a moment to look across the mid to high range, you’ll find plenty of Rose’s in that section too.
5. Rosé is purely for slamming down. FALSE. Rosé's charm is in its simplicity. It is a wine to drink not to savour and although preferred on a balmy summers evening, a glass in front of a warm fire with a special friend can be very romantic. One of the great things about Rosé is that it makes for great drinking with a wide range of foods. A drier style like ours can even handle a red meat dish more commonly served with red wine. Sweeter styles compliment Asian cuisine.
Serving Rosé: Now that you feel comfortable that Rosé is in fact a great wine and possibly even a ‘little bit classy’ you can now think pink to your hearts-desire. Quash your unnecessary embarrassment and take your favourite bottle to a fancy pants dinner party, be pink loud, be pink proud!
Rosé, unlike red wine and Brad Pitt, does not improve over the years — so don’t get any ideas about hoarding it (or Brad for that matter, even though he is freshly single) in your cellar. Rosé is made to drink right now so something from this year is best, the year before at a pinch, unless you want to indulge in some age worthy ones from some regions of France but they are not so easy to come by.
Rosé should be served at around 10-15 degrees so a few hours in the fridge or 30 minutes in the freezer will do the trick. If it’s a really hot day you’ll need an ice bucket but if it’s mild let the bottle sweat on the table after you pour the first glass, this allows the characteristics and aromas to develop.
Enjoying Rosé: Rosé is made to be enjoyed with friends. Escape the wine snobbery of tasting notes and vintages and just pour yourself a long cool glass. To quote the great American novelist Gertrude Stein:
‘A rosé is a rosé is a rosé – and everyone can enjoy it’
There’s a global melting pot of skilled labour at Cape Jaffa Wines (CJW) this vintage and with eyelash batting and stolen glances rife under clear, star filled skies a little bit of ‘World Peace’ may just be bottled with every 2016 wine…
From backgrounds as diverse as professional beer brewing to chemical engineering they followed their nose and travelled to the very edge of the Limestone Coast, South Australia to work with Derek and Anna Hooper. Some read an article and became intrigued about biodynamic processes, some were referred by six degrees of ‘Pip’ separation, some just answered a job vacancy advertisement online. A gypsy-like approach to travelling the world, chasing vintage work and a love of great food and even better wine resonating with them all.
“This region of the world is unique”, Scotty (England) says, rather than competing with each other (the Mount Benson wineries) are working together to promote the region as a whole, it’s a refreshing change in a highly competitive industry”. After being told there was ‘no relocation package’ Chris (New Zealand) finished University and drove his car the length of New Zealand to be able to get it home and catch his flight to Australia, arriving at CJW and being thrown into an earlier than normal start to Vintage. “I think Cape Jaffa is unique in that you can learn about conventional, organic and biodynamic techniques all in the same place”, he says, “there’s a lot more to learn, a lot more to understand”. Pip (New Zealand) agrees, “I’ve been here for two seasons now, we get to experiment. Anna loves fresh thinking. Pretty much any idea that’s remotely valid is OK, in fact the crazier the better. Nothing is out of the ball park, if the idea fails then we all learn something”.
Paul (New Zealand) says “I’d worked with Pip seasonally in New Zealand for sex (six) years. I thought I was coming to Cape Jaffa Wines to drive a little fork lift around, she didn’t mention that it was actually seven and a half tonnes. Now that the season is finished I’ve nearly got the hang of it!” The joke is not lost on the group, they all agree that if you are going to chase vintage work the only expectation you should have is to have no expectations. Scotty says “Paul and myself were picked up from Naracoorte by Anna and within half an hour of arriving at Cape Jaffa we had dropped our bags off, got changed and were scraping out tanks!”
Tom (New South Wales) agrees with the surprise factor. “I was used to a fairly structured working day at the Brewery, and from the moment I arrived that was completely blown out of the water. Long shifts back to back, I had no idea what was going on for the first couple of weeks, so for me it really has been quite the experience, there’s a lot to learn”.
Petra (Finland) met Pip at a harvest in Bordeaux, France last year. With a masters in Chemical Engineering she is still perplexed by the Australian ‘small town’ syndrome. “Everyone knows everyone”, she smirks, “it’s strange but as long as it’s not a shit job, then I’m happy to keep working out here”. So what constitutes a ‘shit’ job for Petra? “If I don’t like it then it’s a shit job”…simple, honest and a masters, this young lady is one to look out for.
To employers looking to jump onto the ‘global influx of vintage staff wagon’ the answer to one final question may surprise you. We asked them all, ‘Do you plan to hang around after vintage?’. Chorus like, their answer was not related to better conditions, higher pay or promotional possibilities it was much, much simpler than that. They will stay as long as they continue to learn, once there is no more to learn they will look for the next mentor. With Derek and Anna Hooper at the helm this group of travellers certainly have a plethora of possibilities available to them. As a group of young, good looking, well-travelled, food and wine loving adults they also have plenty in common to keep the sparks flying for a little while yet.